The best hikes around Ajaccio (from lake to sea in southern Corsica)

The Ajaccio region is a rare playground for hikers: in under an hour by car you go from sea level (gulf of Ajaccio) to the 2,352 m of Monte Renoso, crossing the maquis, the chestnut groves, the laricio pine forest (from 1,000 m up) and the granite ridges. It is this diversity, more than any other region of Corsica, that makes the area exceptional. Here are our favourite itineraries, ranked from the most accessible to the most demanding, with everything you need to know before setting off.

Easy hikes (families, beginners)

1. Loop around the lake of Tolla — 8.5 km, 2h40, +100 m

The great classic of the Ajaccio hinterland: a marked trail that loops around the largest artificial lake in Corsica, crossing the dam. Perfectly suited to families, also rideable on a mountain bike. You pass the water sports centre, coves where swimming is allowed, and the panorama over the Prunelli valley and its spectacular gorges. Best at the end of the day or early in the morning in summer.

2. Heritage trail "Au Fil Du Temps" through the village of Tolla

Not really a hike but a heritage walk: the Tolla town hall has created an educational itinerary of 17 interpretive panels through the village lanes. Start from the square in front of the Saint-Léonard church, a loop between the upper and lower village with views over the lake. Allow around 1 hour at reading pace. Great on arrival day or at the end of the afternoon, accessible at any age. More info on the official Tolla town hall website.

3. Cuttoli-Corticchiato loop — 2h30, +250 m

A shaded loop through the chestnut grove, ideal in the middle of summer. The trail crosses several springs, which makes it one of our favourite "in the shade" hikes. Easy to moderate level, the path is well marked.

Intermediate hikes (4-6 hours)

4. Pozzi plateau (from Bastelica) — 4h, +500 m

The must-do of the area. The Pozzi are water-soaked grassy depressions at 1,800 m altitude that form translucent little lakes in spring, ringed by a granite cirque. The trail starts from Val d'Ese, climbs through the laricio pine forest and opens onto a high plateau that looks like Scotland. Allow 4 hours round trip, moderate level but physically demanding at the end.

5. Mare a Mare Centre trail (variation from Tolla)

The famous Mare a Mare Centre crosses Corsica from west to east. The official route passes a few kilometres from Tolla: starting from Le Relais U Machjonu, you can drive to a stage of the trail, walk the day, and come back to sleep at the Relais in the evening. Ideal to taste the Mare a Mare without committing to the full crossing. Several options depending on your level and the direction you choose.

Demanding hikes (6h+)

6. Monte Renoso (via Val d'Ese) — 7h, +1,100 m

The iconic summit of southern Corsica, at 2,352 m. A full day for trained hikers: 7 hours round trip, more than 1,000 m of positive elevation, 360° views from the top (the Sanguinaires on one side, the gulf of Porto on the other on clear days). Early start (5 am), picnic mandatory, lots of water. Not recommended if you have never walked more than 5 hours in a single day.

7. Tour of Monte Renoso (2 days)

For bivouac lovers: the complete loop around the Renoso massif in 2 days, with one night in a refuge or bivouac. Varied itinerary, alpine landscapes, a possible swim in the Bastani lakes. Book in advance — the area is protected.

8. GR20 stage Vizzavona → Capannelle

To discover the legendary GR20 without committing to its 16 stages, do this test day. 6 to 7 hours of walking, significant elevation but spectacular landscapes. You can sleep at Le Relais U Machjonu the night before (1 hour from Vizzavona) and at the Capannelle refuge that evening. Excellent for assessing whether the full GR20 is for you.

Our themed picks

Hikes in the shade (summer)

When the thermometer goes above 32 °C on the coast, certain itineraries remain doable thanks to forest cover. The best are the Cuttoli-Corticchiato loop (chestnut grove) and the Val d'Ese trails (laricio pine forest at 1,200 m). Avoid in midsummer: coastal trails and anything passing through exposed maquis.

Hikes ending with a swim

The true Corsican luxury is being able to finish your hike with a swim. The lake of Tolla is the most accessible option (swimming allowed in the marked areas, ideal at sunset). A bit further afield, the Manganello and Restonica natural pools offer spectacular translucent water for those who want to extend the experience.

Family hikes (with children)

For children aged 6 and up: the loop around the lake of Tolla and the "Au Fil Du Temps" heritage trail in the village of Tolla (17 educational panels). Avoid hikes in full sun and favour early morning or late afternoon outings. Plan for more water and more breaks than when hiking solo.

Why hike from Le Relais U Machjonu?

All the itineraries above are less than an hour by car from the Relais. It is one of the only places in the region to offer that central location: you sleep facing the lake, you set off rested in the morning, and you come back for an aperitivo on the terrace in the evening. For hikers stringing several days together, it is also a practical base camp: we can keep a bag for you during the day, share detailed itineraries, and even arrange shuttles for one-way hikes. A simple half-board is available on site (€30 dinner) for those who do not want to head out again after a long day on the trail.

Minimum recommended gear

• Hiking shoes with ankle support (Corsican granite is brittle and slippery).
• At least 1.5 L of water per person in summer (2 L for outings longer than 4 hours).
• A cap or a hat (the sun is strong even at altitude).
• Factor 50 sunscreen and sunglasses.
• A light fleece or windbreaker (the ridges are often windy).
• A charged phone with IGN maps downloaded for offline use.
• A basic first-aid kit (blister plasters, antiseptic, bandage).